British Virgin Islands
During our trip to Tortola, we found ourselves enchanted by the Village Cay Hotel, a charming retreat nestled along the scenic waterfront of Road Town. Its idyllic setting captured the essence of the British Virgin Islands, drawing us in with its laid-back charm and maritime allure. For us, it was the perfect home base, situated right in the heart of town on the bustling Marina. Being so close to the ferry terminal made exploring the island a breeze, allowing us to immerse ourselves fully in the vibrant atmosphere of Road Town.
Nestled at the core of Village Cay lies its marina—a haven of tranquility where every ripple in the azure waters seems to whisper secrets of the sea. During our stay, this marina became our sanctuary, a peaceful retreat where we found solace in the gentle sway of sailboats and yachts against the backdrop of the Caribbean's pristine waters. As we gazed out from our vantage point, the sight of the tranquil sea stretching endlessly before us was a balm to the soul, offering respite from the hustle and bustle of daily life. With lush green hills embracing the marina, it felt as though we were cocooned in nature's embrace, sheltered from the worries of the world by the serene beauty of our surroundings.
The afternoons in Tortola were often sweltering, with the humidity after the rain, making the heat feel even more intense. To escape the scorching temperatures, we frequently sought refuge in the refreshing oasis of the hotel pool, conveniently positioned just across from the restaurant bar. Here, we indulged in the ultimate tropical treat — piña coladas — while enjoying lively rounds of cards in between dips in the cool waters. It became our cherished ritual, a perfect blend of relaxation and fun, as we basked in the sunshine and savored every moment of our island getaway.
So, in the mornings, we eagerly embarked on our daily ritual of exploration, venturing out to immerse ourselves in the vibrant tapestry of the small town. As we meandered along the narrow streets, we were greeted by a kaleidoscope of colors splashed across the facades of the quaint buildings. Each structure seemed to tell its own story, with pastel hues and whimsical architectural details adding to the charm of the streetscape. With each step, we felt a sense of anticipation, eager to uncover hidden gems and discover the treasures that awaited us around every corner.
Our wanderings often led us to bustling marketplaces and eclectic boutiques, where we delighted in perusing local handicrafts, artisanal goods, and unique souvenirs. From handmade textiles to intricately crafted jewelry, each item seemed to carry with it a piece of the town's rich cultural heritage, inviting us to take a piece of its magic home with us.
Ah, Pusser's—the hallowed halls of nautical lore, British Navy tradition, and boozy bliss. This legendary establishment beckons to rum enthusiasts like a siren's call. As a devout disciple of the fine art of rum appreciation, I find solace in the warm embrace of Pusser's, where each visit feels like a spiritual journey to the holy grail of rum. Situated in the heart of Road Town, this legendary establishment holds a special place in my heart as the purveyor of my favorite rum. For me, Pusser's isn't just a bar—it's a pilgrimage to the holy grail of rum. As I settle into a cozy corner, I eagerly anticipate the first sip of my beloved Pusser's rum, its rich and complex flavors tantalizing my taste buds with each sip.
As I raise my glass in a toast to Pusser's, I can't help but feel a deep sense of gratitude for this cherished oasis of rum-soaked bliss. It's a place where the sea meets the soul, and where every sip is a celebration of life's greatest pleasures. Cheers to Pusser's—the keeper of my favorite rum and the guardian of countless memories yet to be made. In commemoration of this event, I broke our travel tradition of only window shopping and bought myself a comfortable polo shirt with the Pussers logo.
One of the more interesting and unusual places we visited in town was Her Majesty's Prison Museum, which stands as a testament to the island's complex history of justice and incarceration. It was a compelling glimpse into the inner workings of one of the oldest penal institutions in the British Virgin Islands. As we stepped through its doors, we were transported back in time, where the echoes of past inmates and wardens resonated within the prison's imposing walls.
The museum's exhibits offer a poignant narrative of the evolution of the penal system in Tortola, from its early days as a colonial outpost to its modern-day incarnation. Photographs and documents offer a window into the lives of both prisoners and guards, shedding light on the human stories behind the prison's walls.
The prisoners at Her Majesty's Prison Museum in Road Town, Tortola, varied widely, ranging from individuals convicted of crimes such as theft, piracy, and smuggling to political dissidents and prisoners of war throughout different periods of the British Virgin Islands' history.
VIRGIN GORDA
We headed to the Ferry Terminal, excited for a day trip to the island of Virgin Gorda, home to the stunning and exotic Baths. We boarded a vessel bound for the enchanting island of Virgin Gorda. As the ferry departed from Road Town, we were greeted by the refreshing sea breeze and stunning views of the Caribbean Sea, a prelude to the natural beauty that awaited us.
The journey across the turquoise waters was a delight in itself, with the rhythmic motion of the ferry and the sight of distant islands dotting the horizon. As we approached Virgin Gorda, the island’s lush greenery and rugged coastline came into view, building our anticipation for the day ahead.
Disembarking at the port, we felt a surge of excitement. Virgin Gorda, renowned for its pristine beaches and unique geological formations, promised a day of exploration and wonder. Our first destination was The Baths, a natural wonder of giant granite boulders, hidden grottos, and crystal-clear tidal pools.
One of the most striking differences we noticed between Virgin Gorda and other Caribbean islands we’ve visited was its distinctive landscape, particularly the presence of cacti. While many Caribbean islands are characterized by lush, tropical foliage and dense rainforests, Virgin Gorda offered a unique juxtaposition of greenery and arid, desert-like flora.
As we explored the island, the tall, spiny silhouettes of cacti stood out against the backdrop of the azure sea and rocky terrain. These hardy plants, including varieties like prickly pear and barrel cactus, thrived in the island’s dry, sunny climate. Their presence added an unexpected and captivating element to the island’s natural beauty, contrasting sharply with the verdant palms and flowering plants we typically have seen in the Caribbean.
Standing on a vantage point high above Virgin Gorda, we gazed out over the breathtaking landscape stretching towards the shimmering ocean waters. The view was a mesmerizing tapestry of contrasts—the rugged terrain dotted with resilient cacti, the smooth, sun-drenched boulders of The Baths, and the lush greenery cascading down to meet the pristine, white sandy beaches. The deep blue of the Caribbean Sea stretched endlessly, meeting the sky at a distant horizon where the sun cast a golden glow.
Navigating through the narrow passages, we found ourselves squeezing between tight crevices and scrambling over smooth, rounded boulders. The play of light within the caves was mesmerizing; beams of sunlight pierced through gaps, illuminating hidden pools of crystal-clear water and casting intricate shadows on the cavern walls. The air inside was cool and damp, a refreshing contrast to the warm Caribbean breeze outside.
At the end of a trail that wound down to the beach, we came upon the caves. As we approached this natural wonder, the sight of enormous granite boulders stacked haphazardly along the beach ignited our curiosity and sense of adventure. With the sun high in the sky, we ventured into the maze of caves and tunnels formed by these giant rocks, each step revealing a new, awe-inspiring view.
At times, we waded through water, feeling the soft sand beneath our feet and the gentle tug of the tide. The sounds of the ocean echoed through the caverns, creating a soothing, almost meditative backdrop to our exploration. Every turn presented a new challenge, from climbing slippery rock faces to balancing on narrow ledges, but the thrill of discovery propelled us forward.
Our journey through the caves of The Baths was both physically demanding and utterly rewarding. It was an adventure that tested our limits and rewarded our efforts with some of the most beautiful and unique landscapes we had ever seen. The combination of mystery, challenge, and natural beauty made this experience a highlight of our time on Virgin Gorda, etching itself indelibly into our memories.
After navigating through the labyrinthine caves of The Baths, we emerged into a scene of breathtaking beauty that felt like a hidden paradise revealed. The narrow passageways opened up to a pristine sandy beach, where the golden sand met the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean Sea. The contrast was stunning—the soft, inviting beach was framed by the imposing granite boulders we had just traversed, now bathed in sunlight.
The water was impossibly clear, its turquoise hues sparkling under the midday sun. Gentle waves lapped at the shore, creating a soothing symphony of sounds that mingled with the distant calls of seabirds. The boulders, partially submerged in the shallow water, created natural pools and alcoves, inviting us to explore further.
We eagerly kicked off our shoes and stepped into the warm, inviting water. It was refreshing and invigorating, washing away any fatigue from our climb through the caves. The gentle current and soft sandy bottom made it the perfect spot to swim and float, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the tranquil beauty of this hidden gem.
As we swam, we discovered small fish darting around the rocks and colorful sea life that added to the magic of the moment. We found a perfect spot on the beach to lay out our towels and bask in the sun, the rhythmic sound of the waves providing a soothing backdrop. The beach was wonderfully secluded, giving us a sense of peace and privacy as we soaked in the stunning surroundings.
Looking back at the entrance of the caves, now a distant shadow against the bright beach, we felt a profound sense of accomplishment and wonder. The journey through the caves had been an adventure, but this serene beach was the ultimate reward. It was a moment of pure bliss, a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation that encapsulated the unique charm of Virgin Gorda.
Ferry trip to St Thomas
Our friends, Dorla and Gary, who hosted us on their catamaran in the St. Thomas Islands, were moored in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, during their journey back up to Chesapeake Bay. Since we were only an hour away by ferry, we arranged to meet them for lunch and drinks to wish them a safe journey.
We caught the early 9:00 am ferry from Road Town to Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, eager for the day's adventure. The morning was perfect, with the sun casting a golden glow over the Caribbean Sea. A gentle breeze accompanied us, and the water was remarkably smooth, making for a serene and pleasant voyage. We felt fortunate to have such ideal weather, which set the tone for a wonderful day ahead with our friends.
The ferry arrived at the Charlotte Amalie ferry terminal, conveniently located next to the seaplane terminal. As we went through customs, we watched in awe as one of the seaplane charters took off, its roar echoing over the water.
Once we cleared customs, we spotted Gary, Dorla and Cosmo waiting with their dinghy to pick us up. They ferried us to a nearby dock, where we were set to embark on our afternoon land adventure.
Meeting our friends in Charlotte Amalie was perfect for MK and me, as we were very familiar with the town, having stayed there just a month prior. Knowing that Gary and Dorla had been craving good Mexican food, which is hard to find in the Caribbean, we took them to Greengos Cantina for lunch. Our familiarity with the town allowed us to navigate easily and share one of our favorite spots with them.
For dessert, we strolled a few streets over and down an alley to another of our favorite spots, St. John Brewers' Brewtique. There, we indulged in their famous vanilla rum root beers, savoring the unique flavors in the cozy setting of the brewery and retail store.
We spent the day wandering around town, window shopping and sharing stories of our adventures since we last saw each other. As the day progressed, we sat down for a final drink together, enjoying each other's company. Eventually, we made our way back to the dinghy and motored across the bay to the ferry terminal, ready to return to Tortola.
As we traversed the harbor on our way back to Road Town on the ferry, we passed the Moonlight Lady anchored in the bay and waved goodbye to our friends as the boats drifted past each other. It had been a wonderful day, and it felt great to reconnect before we departed for adventures in opposite directions.