Puerto Rico
Following a brief journey by air from St. Thomas, we landed in San Juan, Puerto Rico. We felt fortunate to have chosen accommodations in the Ocean Park neighborhood, as it offered excellent proximity to the beaches. Additionally, its walkability and convenience for shopping and dining were major perks. It was also a coincidence that our cousin resides in the same neighborhood.
SAN JUAN OLD TOWN
While in San Juan, it was imperative for us to explore the historic Old Town. Thus, we opted for an Uber ride to Plaza Colon, situated at the gateway to Old San Juan, Puerto Rico It is a vibrant and historic square that is rich in cultural heritage and bustling atmosphere. Named after Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon in Spanish), the plaza features a prominent statue of the explorer, serving as a reminder of the island's discovery in 1493. After soaking in the lively atmosphere of the plaza, and surrounding colonial architecture, we took a brief stroll to the imposing walls of Castillo San Cristobal.
Wandering through Castillo San Cristobal is like stepping back into a pivotal chapter of history, each step echoing with tales of battles and resilience. As we entered this massive fortress, the largest the Spanish built in the New World, I felt an immediate sense of awe at the sheer scale and strategic ingenuity it represented. The ancient walls, worn yet steadfast, whispered stories of the past, inviting us to delve deeper into the fortress's secrets.
Navigating through the labyrinthine tunnels, we could almost hear the soldiers' footsteps, a reminder of the fortress's primary role in guarding San Juan against land attacks.
Emerging into the sunlight, Climbing onto the ramparts, where the panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the city were breathtaking. It was easy to imagine sentinels scanning the horizon for approaching ships, the vast ocean a beautiful yet daunting reminder of isolation and the constant threat of invasion.
The sentry boxes, or "garitas," iconic symbols of Puerto Rico's heritage, offered unique vantage points, framing the blue expanse of sea and sky in their arched windows. Standing in one, I felt a connection to the guards who once kept watch there, vigilant protectors of their fortress home.
Exploring the various levels and sections of Castillo San Cristobal, each corner revealed a new layer of its storied past. From the solemnity of the dungeons, where graffiti from prisoners still marks the walls, to the open courtyards where soldiers once gathered, every element spoke of the human experiences that intertwined with the fortress's stones.
Our walk through Castillo San Cristobal was a journey through a historic site through time. Leaving, there was a deeper appreciation for the fortress not only as a marvel of military engineering but as a custodian of stories, resilience, and the enduring spirit of Puerto Rico.
Strolling through the streets of Old San Juan is like meandering through a living, breathing museum, where every cobblestone, brightly painted façade, and ornate balcony tells a story of centuries past. The vibrant hues of the buildings—ranging from sunlit yellows to ocean blues—create a kaleidoscopic backdrop that seems to dance under the Caribbean sun. As I wander, the scent of Puerto Rican coffee and the sound of salsa music spill out from the open doors of cafés and shops, inviting me to pause and savor the moment.
Each turn reveals architectural wonders, from Spanish colonial churches to grand fortresses that watch over the city. Plazas dotted with lush greenery offer respite, where locals and visitors alike gather, blending the present with the historical tapestry of this enchanting city.
The Cathedral of San Juan Bautista is a real gem tucked away in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico. It's got this old-world charm that makes you feel like you've stepped back in time. Built way back in 1521, it's one of the oldest things you'll find in San Juan and ranks as the second oldest cathedral in the Americas. Despite all the hurricanes and battles it's seen, it's still standing strong, a testament to the tough spirit of the place.
Stepping inside, there's this immediate sense of calm and history that wraps around you. The place is stunning, with high ceilings, gorgeous stained glass, and stonework. It's also the final resting place of Juan Ponce de León, who was all about finding the fountain of youth and ended up being Puerto Rico's first governor. It's wild to think about all that history in one tiny church.
At the end of the Paseo de la Princesa, right where the path curves gracefully along the ancient city walls, stands a stunning fountain that feels like the grand finale of this scenic walk. What makes the fountain truly captivating is its setting against the backdrop of the bay and the towering walls of the city. This juxtaposition of natural beauty, historical fortifications, and artistic expression creates a picturesque scene that feels almost otherworldly.
Walking along the Paseo de la Princesa in Old San Juan, you're treated to one of the most breathtaking views the city has to offer. This promenade, hugging the outer walls of the city, feels like a journey through time, with the mighty fortifications on one side and the endless expanse of the sea on the other. These walls, which have stood the test of time, tell tales of the city's past, its battles, and its resilience. The contrast between the ancient, weathered stone and the sparkling Caribbean waters is simply stunning.
In the end, we found ourselves at the opposite edge of Old San Juan, where the majestic Castillo San Felipe del Morro faces the sea. From the moment I caught sight of its imposing walls against the backdrop of a bright blue sky, I knew I was in for something special. El Morro isn't just a fortress; it's a sprawling green space too. Families and friends were chilling on the lawns, flying kites, and just soaking up the sun. It struck me how this place has transformed from a military stronghold into a spot where locals hang out and relax, which is pretty cool when you think about it .
What really got me, though, was the sense of history that seeps into you as you wander around. Every wall, every cannon, has stories to tell of battles, of resilience, and of Puerto Rico's strategic importance through the ages. And despite the tourist buzz, there's a reverence here, a respect for the past that I found really moving.
Following a day spent exploring Old San Juan, we rendezvoused with our cousin Derek at La Factoria Bar, nestled in the heart of the town, before heading back to our apartment. Reconnecting with him and exchanging stories about our lives after more than two decades apart was truly wonderful. We also discovered that he lives in Ocean Park a few blocks away from our apartment.
Walking up to El Morro, the first thing that hit me was just how massive this place is. It's like a giant stone guardian watching over the sea. Once inside, roaming through the maze of tunnels, barracks, and lookout points, I couldn't help but feel a little bit like a kid again, imagining pirates and epic sea battles. The views from the top were nothing short of epic. Staring out over the Atlantic, with the breeze coming in, you get why this spot was so strategic.
Standing atop El Morro, gazing across Old San Juan, the view is like something out of a postcard. From this vantage point, you can see the whole city laid out before you, with its colorful buildings, winding streets, and bustling plazas. But what really catches your eye is the imposing figure of Castillo San Cristobal, standing tall on the opposite side of the city.
On Superbowl Sunday, we found a great spot to catch the game at a restaurant called 1208 Ashford. We had reserved a table a couple of days ahead to make sure we'd get in. We showed up about an hour and a half before kickoff to grab a good seat. It’s a good thing we planned ahead and got there early because the place filled up fast, and people were lining up outside the open bar, hoping to get in.
This was the first year we celebrated superbowl without our close friends John and April who have hosted the event every year with friends and family. However, watching the Superbowl with a cold drink in hand and a hearty meal on the table was a blast. The energy in the bar was electric, with fans from both sides cheering and groaning at every play. We dug into some delicious nachos, the perfect fuel for a night of football. The drinks were just as satisfying, with a selection of craft beers and classic cocktails that kept our spirits high. The best part was sharing the experience with a room full of enthusiastic fans, each touchdown or game-changing play bringing everyone to their feet in unison. It was a night of camaraderie, good food, and football.
El Yunque National Rainforest
A day trip to El Yunque National Forest in Puerto Rico is a journey into a lush, vibrant, and soothing world. The drive to El Yunque from San Juan is relatively short, yet it feels like entering another realm. As we climbed into the mountains, the scenery transitions from urban sprawl to dense forest, with towering trees and thick underbrush surrounding the winding roads. It's a perfect escape from the heat and noise of the city.
The air is thick with the scent of tropical greenery, and the sounds of birds and distant waterfalls create a calming backdrop to the adventure that awaits. After a brief hike through the lush trails of El Yunque, we reached a small rock slide that tumbled into a large, inviting pond.
The cool water was a welcome relief from the humidity, and we wasted no time wading in, feeling the gentle current against our legs. Around us, people climbed the rocks and took turns sliding down into the pond, laughter echoing through the trees as they splashed into the clear water. It was the perfect spot to soak, relax, and watch as brave children jumped from the rocks, their leaps adding an air of excitement to the peaceful setting.
Of course I had to give the water slide a whirl. So, there I was, sitting at the top, trying to look like I knew what i was doing. I took a deep breath and pushed off, feeling the cool water propel me forward like a cork popping out of a champagne bottle—but with less elegance. The slide was smooth, which was fortunate, because my balance was anything but. As I zipped down the rocky chute, the speed was exhilarating and mildly horrifying. I may have screamed a bit (I swear it was just the wind), and before I knew it, I was hurtling toward the pond. With one final burst of momentum, I plunged into the water, creating a splash that could have doused a campfire.
After my wild ride down the rushing water slide, we decided to just float and soak in the refreshingly cool waters. The pond at the bottom was the perfect spot for chilling out, and we started chatting with other folks who had clearly mastered the art of relaxation. Everyone was either swimming, floating, or just lounging in the water like it was the world's most laid-back hot tub (minus the heat, of course). It was a great way to catch our breath, share a few laughs, and pretend that I hadn’t just had a near-death experience on that water slide.
The next stop was a short hike to La Mina Falls, a must-visit for anyone looking to play in the water. The hike to La Mina is a delightful journey through the rainforest, with towering trees and vibrant ferns lining the trail. Along the way, the sounds of birds and the rustling of leaves accompaned us, creating a peaceful atmosphere.
La Mina Falls is a bustling yet idyllic spot. The waterfall rushes down a series of rocks, creating a natural water slide where adventurous souls take turns sliding into the cool pool below. I say "adventurous souls" because this is a real water slide not like the bunny slope i tried. The water is crisp and refreshing, a welcome relief from the tropical humidity. After my thrilling slide i wasnt ready to try this one, so instead can floated, letting the current gently carry us, and watched others take the plunge.
We hiked back through the rainforest to our ride. Then set off for the town of Luquillo, a charming coastal town on Puerto Rico's northeastern shore. It is a vibrant mix of natural beauty and laid-back Caribbean culture. The driver took us to the iconic Luquillo Kiosks, a series of beachfront food stalls serving up everything from fried plantains to fresh seafood. With its friendly atmosphere, breathtaking landscapes, and delicious cuisine, Luquillo embodies the spirit of Puerto Rico's coastal life.
MK and I found ourselves at the Edelweiss Bar and Grill, one of the many vibrant kiosks in Luquillo, with the tantalizing aroma of Puerto Rican cuisine filling the air. The kiosk was buzzing with energy, with people chattering over drinks and the sound of sizzling food coming from the grill. We ordered the chicken-stuffed avocado, a dish that came highly recommended, and settled into our seats, soaking in the casual beachside vibe.
When our lunch arrived, it was nothing short of spectacular. The avocado, perfectly ripe and halved, was brimming with a savory chicken filling, seasoned just right with a blend of spices that made my mouth water. Each bite was a creamy, hearty delight, the coolness of the avocado balancing the warm, flavorful chicken. MK and I couldn't stop exclaiming how good it was, laughing at our shared enthusiasm for such a simple yet divine dish.
After lunch, MK and I took a leisurely stroll along the Balneario La Monserrate beach, letting the warm sand sift between our toes as we walked. The beach was alive with activity—families playing in the surf, kids building sandcastles, and a few surfers riding the gentle waves. We followed the shoreline, listening to the rhythmic crash of the waves and feeling the sea breeze on our faces. The afternoon sun cast a golden hue over the water, creating a shimmering path that stretched out to the horizon. It was the perfect way to end our day in Luquillo, a tranquil interlude before heading back to the bustle of San Juan. As we walked, we couldn't help but take a few last photos of the beautiful scenery, knowing we'd want to remember this peaceful moment long after we left.
Trip To Vieques Mosquito Bay
The sky stretched across with clear blue skies as we ubered across the island, our destination: the ferry terminal on the eastern edge of Puerto Rico. We were headed to Vieques, an island that promised untouched beaches and vibrant wildlife. But it wasn't just the serene island scenery that drew us in—it was Mosquito Bay, a bioluminescent wonder that we planned to explore by kayak.
After boarding the ferry, an hour later, we arrived in Vieques. The island felt like a different world—quieter, slower, and infinitely more relaxed. We caught a taxi to take us to Esperanza on the other side of the Island to check into our guesthouse.
We checked into our small guesthouse, attached to the Lazy Jacks Restuarant and Bar, dropped off our bags, and made our way to the meeting point for the kayak tour. The sky was darkening, and the temperature had cooled, a perfect night for an adventure on the water.
Our guide, greeted us with a warm smile and a wealth of knowledge about the island's history and ecology. He handed us life jackets and gave us a brief safety briefing before we set off to Mosquito Bay. The bay was aptly named—it was teeming with mangroves, which attracted the tiny insects—but what drew us there wasn't the mosquitoes, it was the dinoflagellates.
As we paddled into the bay, the darkness enveloped us, and the stars above became our guiding lights. The water was calm, almost mirror-like, reflecting the night sky. Carlos instructed us to dip our paddles into the water and, as we did, the bay came alive with an ethereal blue-green glow. It was as if the stars had fallen into the water and were swirling around our kayaks.
The bioluminescence was mesmerizing, a natural light show that seemed almost otherworldly. Each stroke of the paddle created a burst of light, and even the fish darting beneath us left trails of glowing ripples. The guide explained that the light came from tiny microorganisms called dinoflagellates, which emitted a bioluminescent glow when agitated. It was nature's own version of magic. We have occasionally seen something similar in Newport Beach with blue green glowing foam as the waves crash on the beach.
We spent the evening kayaking through the bay, watching as the water illuminated with our every movement. The movement of the paddles in the water and the passage of the kayaks left trails of light behind, and the swimming fish left zigzag trails as they darted through the water. Passing my hand through the water I could see the shape backlit in blue green. As we returned to the shore, the glow faded, leaving us in the quiet stillness of the night.
Later, as we settled in for the night at our guesthouse, we knew that this was a journey we would never forget. Vieques had shown us a glimpse of something truly unique, a glowing bay that felt like a hidden treasure. And we couldn't wait to return.